👗Costume Design Unit 9 – Costume Sketching and Technical Drawing

Key Concepts and Terminology

• Costume sketches visually communicate design ideas and serve as blueprints for constructing costumes
• Croquis templates provide a standardized figure for sketching costumes quickly and consistently
• Proportion refers to the relative size and scale of different parts of the human body in relation to each other
• Silhouette describes the overall shape and outline of a costume design (A-line, fitted, boxy)
• Draping is the process of manipulating fabric directly on a dress form to create desired shapes and styles
• Flat sketches or technical flats are detailed, scaled drawings of a garment laid flat, showing construction details and measurements
• Swatches are small samples of fabric used to convey color, texture, and material properties in a costume design
• Costume renderings are fully realized, colored illustrations showcasing the final costume design on a figure

Tools and Materials

• Sketchbooks provide a portable and versatile surface for drawing and ideation
• Drawing pencils come in various grades of hardness (HB, 2B, 6B) for creating different line weights and shading effects
• Erasers, such as kneaded erasers and plastic erasers, allow for precise removal of pencil marks without damaging paper
• Tracing paper is translucent paper used for transferring designs, creating layered effects, or refining sketches
• Colored pencils enable artists to add vibrant hues and shading to their costume renderings
• Watercolor paints and brushes can be used to create soft, flowing color washes on renderings
• Markers, both alcohol-based and water-based, provide bold, even coverage for coloring sketches
• Rulers, French curves, and templates assist in creating precise lines, curves, and shapes in technical drawings

Basic Sketching Techniques

• Gesture drawing involves quick, loose sketches that capture the essence and movement of a pose
• Contour drawing focuses on the outlines and edges of shapes to define form
• Cross-hatching is a shading technique that uses overlapping lines to create texture and value
• Blending with stumps or tortillons can create smooth, gradual transitions between tones
• Perspective drawing helps convey depth and three-dimensionality in sketches (one-point, two-point perspective)
• Thumbnails are small, quick sketches used to explore multiple design ideas and compositions
• Negative space refers to the areas around and between the subject, which can be used to define shapes and forms
• Continuous line drawing is an exercise in which the artist draws without lifting the pencil from the paper, promoting fluid linework

Figure Drawing for Costumes

• The nine-head proportion system is a guideline that divides the human body into nine equal sections for accurate proportions
• Stick figures serve as simplified skeletal structures to map out pose and movement before adding details
• Gesture lines capture the flow and rhythm of the body's pose and help maintain dynamic poses in sketches
• Joint placement is crucial for creating believable and anatomically correct figures in various poses
• Foreshortening is a technique used to depict an object or body part as if it is extending towards or away from the viewer
• Contrapposto is an asymmetrical pose where the figure's weight is shifted to one leg, creating a natural, relaxed stance
• Facial features and expressions can be simplified in costume sketches while still conveying character and emotion
• Hands and feet are important details that require special attention to proportion, gesture, and placement

Rendering Fabrics and Textures

• Fabric weight influences how a garment drapes and moves on the body (lightweight chiffon vs. heavy wool)
• Sheen refers to the reflective quality of a fabric, ranging from matte to glossy (satin, silk, velvet)
• Texture can be conveyed through shading techniques like stippling, hatching, or layering colors (lace, tweed, denim)
• Folds and drapes are essential for depicting how fabric interacts with the body and movement
  • Hanging folds occur when fabric hangs freely from a support point
  • Creased folds appear when fabric is bunched or compressed
  • Spiral folds are created by twisting or wrapping fabric around a form
• Patterns and prints can be indicated through repetitive motifs or simplified graphic representations (stripes, polka dots, florals)
• Transparency and layering effects can be achieved by using lighter pressure or translucent media (chiffon, organza, lace overlays)
• Highlights and shadows help define the volume and depth of fabric folds and gather

Technical Drawing Essentials

• Flats are two-dimensional, front-view drawings of a garment, showing accurate proportions and construction details
• Back views and side views provide additional information about garment construction and fit
• Seam lines indicate where pattern pieces are joined together and are represented by solid lines
• Darts are wedge-shaped folds sewn into fabric to shape the garment to the body's contours
• Buttons, zippers, and closures are drawn in detail to communicate fastening methods
• Hemlines, necklines, and other edge finishes are clearly delineated in technical drawings
• Annotations and measurements provide essential information for constructing the garment accurately
• Callouts are used to specify unique construction details, fabric choices, or trim placements

Digital Sketching and CAD

• Raster-based programs (Photoshop, Procreate) use pixels to create digital images and allow for freehand drawing and painting techniques
• Vector-based programs (Illustrator, CLO3D) use mathematical equations to define shapes and lines, allowing for clean, scalable graphics
• Layers in digital programs enable artists to separate and edit individual elements of a design without affecting others
• Digital brushes and textures can mimic traditional media like pencils, paints, and fabrics
• Customizable swatches and color palettes streamline the process of exploring color schemes and variations
• CAD (computer-aided design) software specializes in creating accurate technical flats and pattern pieces (Optitex, Gerber)
• 3D modeling programs (Marvelous Designer, CLO3D) allow designers to visualize garments on virtual avatars and simulate fabric drape and fit
• Digital libraries and assets, such as croquis templates and fabric textures, can be reused and modified for efficient workflow

Portfolio Development

• Cohesiveness in style, presentation, and content creates a strong, professional portfolio
• Variety in project types, genres, and styles demonstrates versatility and adaptability as a designer
• Storytelling through character and costume design helps convey a clear narrative and design intent
• Consistency in figure proportions, rendering techniques, and layout enhances the overall polish of the portfolio
• Curation involves selecting the strongest, most relevant pieces that showcase the designer's skills and unique perspective
• Presentation matters, whether physical or digital, and should be neat, organized, and easy to navigate
• Branding elements, such as logos, color schemes, and fonts, can create a memorable and cohesive visual identity
• Editing and refining the portfolio regularly ensures that it remains up-to-date and reflects the designer's growth and best work