10.2 Flat Pattern Making
3 min read•august 9, 2024
Flat pattern making is a crucial skill in costume design, allowing you to create custom garments from scratch. It involves using basic templates, called blocks or slopers, and manipulating them to achieve desired styles. This process forms the foundation for bringing costume designs to life.
Understanding pattern markings and symbols is essential for accurate garment construction. From to grainlines, these indicators guide you through the assembly process. Properly preparing patterns for ensures efficient use of fabric and precise garment creation, setting the stage for successful costume production.
Pattern Drafting Basics
Foundational Pattern Elements
Top images from around the web for Foundational Pattern Elements
Seam Allowance Differential | This is because we took a litt… | Flickr View original
Is this image relevant?
Design Patterns - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
The Homemade Renegade: Pattern Blocks -- an oldie but a goodie View original
Is this image relevant?
Seam Allowance Differential | This is because we took a litt… | Flickr View original
Is this image relevant?
Design Patterns - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
1 of 3
Top images from around the web for Foundational Pattern Elements
Seam Allowance Differential | This is because we took a litt… | Flickr View original
Is this image relevant?
Design Patterns - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
The Homemade Renegade: Pattern Blocks -- an oldie but a goodie View original
Is this image relevant?
Seam Allowance Differential | This is because we took a litt… | Flickr View original
Is this image relevant?
Design Patterns - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
1 of 3
- Block patterns serve as basic templates for garment construction representing standard body measurements and shapes
- Slopers function as master patterns without style lines or seam allowances used to create more complex designs
- Pattern drafting involves creating paper templates for garment pieces based on body measurements and design specifications
- refers to extra fabric added beyond the stitching line allowing for garment assembly typically ranging from 1/4 inch to 1 inch
Pattern Development Process
- Begin with accurate body measurements to ensure proper fit
- Create a basic or as the starting point for design modifications
- Manipulate the block pattern by adding design elements like darts, pleats, or style lines
- Transfer the modified pattern onto paper including all necessary markings and symbols
- Add appropriate seam allowances to each pattern piece based on fabric type and construction method
Pattern Markings and Symbols
Essential Pattern Indicators
- Notches consist of small marks on pattern edges indicating where pieces should align during assembly
- arrows show the direction of fabric grain ensuring proper fabric and garment drape
- Pattern symbols communicate crucial information about garment construction including:
- Buttonhole placements
- Zipper locations
- Dart positions
- Fold lines
- Cutting instructions (cut on fold, cut 2, etc.)
Interpreting Pattern Information
- Understand common pattern symbol meanings to accurately construct garments
- Identify size information and pattern piece names typically printed on each pattern piece
- Recognize adjustment lines for lengthening or shortening garments
- Locate balance marks used to align pattern pieces during assembly
- Interpret fabric requirement information provided on pattern envelopes or instruction sheets
Preparing Patterns for Cutting
Pattern Layout Techniques
- Study pattern layout diagrams provided with commercial patterns for efficient fabric use
- Consider fabric width, nap, and print direction when arranging pattern pieces
- Place pattern pieces on fabric following grainline arrows to ensure proper garment drape
- Pin or weight pattern pieces securely to fabric before cutting
- Double-check pattern piece placement and quantity before cutting fabric
Pattern Piece Organization
- Identify all necessary pattern pieces for the chosen garment style and size
- Verify pattern pieces against the pattern inventory list
- Group pattern pieces by garment section (bodice, sleeves, skirt, etc.)
- Transfer any necessary pattern markings to fabric using tailor's chalk, tracing paper, or thread marking
Measurement Chart Utilization
- Consult measurement charts provided with patterns to select the appropriate size
- Compare personal body measurements to pattern measurements accounting for
- Understand the difference between body measurements and finished garment measurements
- Make necessary pattern adjustments based on measurement discrepancies
- Use measurement charts to determine fabric yardage requirements for different garment sizes and views
Key Terms to Review (17)
Block pattern: A block pattern is a basic template used in garment construction that serves as the foundation for creating various styles and designs. It is typically made from a specific size and shape that can be adapted or altered to fit different design requirements, allowing designers to maintain consistency in fit and proportions across multiple garments.
Cutting: Cutting refers to the process of shaping fabric pieces according to a pattern before assembling them into a garment. This crucial step allows designers to achieve the intended design, fit, and silhouette of a costume. It involves precise measurements and techniques to ensure that each piece aligns perfectly when sewn together, impacting the overall aesthetic and functionality of the final product.
Dart manipulation: Dart manipulation refers to the technique of altering the shape and position of darts in garment construction to achieve a better fit and enhance the overall design. This method allows designers to control the curvature of fabric around the body's contours, enabling more sophisticated silhouettes. Through dart manipulation, a designer can create various styles by shifting or transforming dart placement, effectively influencing the garment's aesthetics and functionality.
Draping: Draping is a technique used in costume design that involves arranging fabric on a dress form or model to create the structure and design of a garment. This method allows designers to visualize the fit, flow, and movement of fabric in real-time, providing a hands-on approach to garment creation. The process of draping is closely related to various aspects of costume design, including conceptualization, pattern making, and understanding historical styles.
Ease: Ease refers to the extra space or allowance added to a garment or costume pattern that enables comfortable movement and fit. It’s crucial in ensuring that the final design accommodates the wearer's body and allows for dynamic motion, rather than being too tight or restrictive. Proper ease is essential for achieving both functionality and aesthetic appeal in costume design.
Fit muslin: Fit muslin is a preliminary garment made from inexpensive cotton fabric, used in costume design to test the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting into more expensive materials. It allows designers to make adjustments to the silhouette, seams, and overall structure, ensuring the final piece aligns with the intended design vision while fitting the wearer correctly.
Flat Drafting: Flat drafting is a technique used in pattern making that involves creating a two-dimensional representation of a garment's design on a flat surface. This method allows designers to visualize and create accurate patterns that can be used for garment construction, ensuring that all necessary dimensions and details are included. It plays a vital role in the garment design process, allowing for adjustments before moving to the three-dimensional construction phase.
Grainline: Grainline refers to the direction of the threads in a fabric, which is critical for achieving the intended fit and drape of a garment. Understanding grainline helps in accurately placing pattern pieces on fabric, ensuring that the final garment behaves as expected when worn. It's essential in flat pattern making as it directly influences how a piece will hang and move.
Layout: In the context of flat pattern making, layout refers to the specific arrangement and positioning of pattern pieces on a fabric before cutting. It ensures efficient use of fabric, minimizing waste while also considering the grainline, design elements, and any necessary pattern matching. A well-planned layout can significantly affect the final appearance and fit of the garment.
Notches: Notches are small cuts or markings made on a pattern piece to indicate alignment points, sewing lines, or specific design features during the garment construction process. They play a crucial role in ensuring that fabric pieces fit together accurately, facilitating the assembly of various elements such as sleeves, collars, and bodices with precision.
Pattern paper: Pattern paper is a specialized type of paper used in the fashion industry to create and modify patterns for garment construction. It is typically lightweight and easy to manipulate, allowing designers to trace, cut, and adjust their designs accurately. This material is essential in the flat pattern making process, as it helps visualize and refine the shapes and sizes needed for each garment piece.
Ruler: A ruler is a straight measuring tool used in flat pattern making to ensure precision and accuracy in design. It helps in drawing straight lines and measuring distances, making it an essential tool for creating patterns that fit correctly. The ruler plays a crucial role in maintaining the integrity of the design by aiding in accurate measurements and alignment.
Seam allowance: Seam allowance is the distance between the seam line and the edge of the fabric, providing extra material for sewing seams. This space is crucial for ensuring that garments can be constructed correctly and allows for adjustments during fitting. The size of the seam allowance can vary depending on the type of garment and construction techniques used, impacting how seams are finished and the overall fit of the final piece.
Simplicity Patterns: Simplicity patterns are pre-made sewing patterns that provide step-by-step instructions and templates for creating various garments and accessories. These patterns simplify the process of making clothing by offering ready-to-use designs that cater to different skill levels, from beginners to advanced sewers. They are widely recognized for their accessibility, affordability, and diverse range of styles, allowing designers and hobbyists alike to create fashionable pieces with ease.
Sloper: A sloper is a basic pattern template used in garment construction that represents the fit of a specific size without any style or design elements. This foundational piece allows designers to create more complex patterns by serving as a starting point, ensuring that the fit is correct before adding design features or alterations.
Toile: A toile is a preliminary version of a garment made from inexpensive fabric, often muslin, used to test patterns and fit before creating the final piece. This step is crucial in the design process, allowing designers to visualize the silhouette and make necessary adjustments, ensuring the final garment fits properly and meets the design intentions.
Vogue Patterns: Vogue Patterns are a brand of sewing patterns that are known for their contemporary designs and high fashion aesthetics. They cater to a wide range of sewing enthusiasts, offering patterns for various garments that often reflect the latest trends in the fashion industry. Vogue Patterns emphasize precision and style, making them a popular choice among both amateur and professional designers who want to create sophisticated clothing.