12.4 Indigenous fashion and design
8 min read•august 20, 2024
Indigenous fashion blends traditional styles with modern design, celebrating cultural heritage while appealing to wider audiences. It serves as a form of expression, resistance, and empowerment for Indigenous communities across the Americas.
Contemporary Indigenous designers are gaining recognition, challenging stereotypes, and showcasing innovation. Their work reflects cultural identity, preserves traditions, and addresses issues of representation and appropriation in mainstream fashion.
Traditional Indigenous clothing
- Traditional Indigenous clothing reflects the diverse cultures, environments, and resources of Indigenous communities across the Americas
- Clothing styles, materials, and techniques vary widely between regions and tribes, each with their own unique traditions and cultural significance
- Traditional clothing plays an important role in Indigenous identity, spirituality, and social structures
Materials and techniques
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- Indigenous clothing is often made from natural materials sourced from the local environment, such as animal hides (deer, buffalo), furs, and plant fibers (cotton, bark)
- Techniques for creating clothing include tanning, weaving, , and embroidery
- Tanning involves treating animal hides to make them soft and pliable for use in clothing and accessories
- Weaving techniques, such as basketry and textile weaving, are used to create garments and accessories from plant fibers
- Beadwork and embroidery are used to decorate clothing with intricate designs and patterns that hold cultural and spiritual significance
Regional variations
- Clothing styles and materials vary based on the climate, resources, and cultural traditions of each region
- In the Arctic, Inuit and Yupik peoples traditionally wear parkas made from caribou or seal skin to stay warm in the harsh climate
- In the Southwest, Navajo and Hopi peoples are known for their woven textiles, including blankets and dresses
- In the Plains region, tribes like the Lakota and Cheyenne are known for their elaborate beadwork on hide clothing
Ceremonial vs everyday wear
- Indigenous clothing often has different styles and significance for ceremonial and everyday wear
- Ceremonial clothing is often more elaborate and heavily decorated, with specific designs and colors holding spiritual and cultural meaning
- , worn by women in some Plains tribes, are used in healing ceremonies and feature rows of metal cones that create a jingling sound when dancing
- Everyday clothing is typically simpler and more practical, though still reflecting cultural identity and values
- In many tribes, are a common form of everyday footwear, made from soft leather and often decorated with beadwork or
Contemporary Indigenous fashion
- Contemporary Indigenous fashion blends traditional styles, techniques, and cultural motifs with modern design elements and materials
- Indigenous designers are creating innovative and stylish clothing that celebrates their cultural heritage while appealing to a wider audience
- Contemporary Indigenous fashion serves as a form of cultural expression, resistance, and empowerment
Blending tradition and modernity
- Indigenous designers often incorporate traditional materials, techniques, and designs into contemporary clothing styles
- Designer (Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock) creates modern footwear and accessories featuring intricate beadwork inspired by traditional Native American designs
- Mixing traditional and modern elements allows designers to create unique and meaningful clothing that reflects their cultural identity in a contemporary context
Indigenous designers and brands
- A growing number of Indigenous-owned fashion brands and designers are gaining recognition in the fashion industry
- , an Ojibwe-owned denim brand, creates high-quality jeans and jackets with details inspired by Ojibwe culture and history
- (Kaska Dene/Cree) is a haute couture designer known for her use of traditional materials like fish skin and fur in her collections
- These designers and brands are challenging stereotypes and showcasing the diversity and innovation of Indigenous fashion
Fashion as cultural expression
- For many Indigenous people, fashion is a way to express pride in their cultural heritage and assert their identity in the face of ongoing colonialism and cultural assimilation
- Wearing Indigenous-designed clothing can be a form of resistance against and misrepresentation
- Contemporary Indigenous fashion allows for the continuation and evolution of cultural traditions, ensuring their preservation for future generations
Representation in mainstream fashion
- The representation of Indigenous cultures and designs in mainstream fashion has been a contentious issue, with concerns about cultural appropriation and misrepresentation
- However, there are also examples of respectful collaborations and increased visibility for Indigenous models and designers in the fashion industry
Cultural appropriation vs appreciation
- Cultural appropriation occurs when non-Indigenous designers or brands use Indigenous designs, motifs, or cultural elements without proper understanding, respect, or compensation
- In 2015, fashion brand KTZ faced backlash for using a Inuit shaman's sacred design on a sweater without permission or acknowledgment
- Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, involves respectful collaboration, credit, and compensation for Indigenous creatives and communities
- In 2020, Manitobah Mukluks, an Indigenous-owned footwear brand, collaborated with Dene artist to create a collection featuring her designs, with a portion of proceeds going to support Indigenous artists
Indigenous models and campaigns
- Indigenous models are increasingly being featured in fashion campaigns and runway shows, providing visibility and representation for Indigenous peoples in the fashion industry
- In 2019, Vogue Mexico featured an all-Indigenous cover and photoshoot, showcasing the diversity and beauty of Indigenous cultures in Mexico
- However, there is still a need for greater representation and opportunities for Indigenous models, as well as more diverse and accurate portrayals of Indigenous cultures in fashion media
Collaborations with non-Indigenous brands
- Some non-Indigenous fashion brands have collaborated with Indigenous designers or communities to create collections that respectfully incorporate Indigenous designs and support Indigenous creators
- In 2021, fashion brand Faherty collaborated with Diné (Navajo) designer to create a capsule collection featuring his artwork, with a portion of proceeds benefiting the Navajo Nation's COVID-19 relief efforts
- These collaborations can provide opportunities for Indigenous designers and help educate non-Indigenous audiences about Indigenous cultures, but they must be approached with care and respect to avoid cultural appropriation
Fashion and Indigenous identity
- For many Indigenous people, fashion is deeply connected to their cultural identity and sense of belonging
- Clothing can serve as a visible marker of Indigenous identity, helping to maintain cultural traditions and assert sovereignty in the face of ongoing colonialism and assimilation
Clothing as cultural marker
- Specific clothing styles, designs, and accessories can signify an individual's tribal affiliation, clan, or family
- In some Coast Salish tribes, woven cedar bark hats are worn by high-ranking individuals and signify their status and role within the community
- Wearing traditional or Indigenous-designed clothing can be a way for Indigenous people to express pride in their heritage and connect with their ancestors and cultural traditions
Fashion and decolonization
- For some Indigenous people, fashion can be a tool for and reclaiming cultural identity
- By wearing Indigenous-designed clothing and rejecting Western fashion norms, Indigenous people can assert their sovereignty and challenge the dominant culture's attempts at assimilation
- Indigenous fashion can also serve as a form of resistance against cultural appropriation and misrepresentation, by allowing Indigenous people to control the narrative around their own cultures and designs
Pride in Indigenous heritage
- Wearing Indigenous fashion can be a powerful way for Indigenous people to express pride in their cultural heritage and celebrate their identity
- Indigenous fashion allows for the continuation and evolution of cultural traditions, ensuring that they are passed down to future generations
- By wearing clothing that reflects their Indigenous identity, individuals can help to educate others about the diversity and resilience of Indigenous cultures
Challenges facing Indigenous fashion
- Despite the growth and success of contemporary Indigenous fashion, there are still significant challenges facing Indigenous designers and communities
- These challenges include issues of mass production, cultural appropriation, and the need for sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry
Mass production and fast fashion
- The fast fashion industry's focus on mass production and cheap labor can make it difficult for Indigenous designers to compete and maintain their traditional techniques and values
- Mass-produced clothing often lacks the quality, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of Indigenous-made garments
- The pressure to keep up with fast fashion trends can also lead to the appropriation and watering down of Indigenous designs and motifs
Protecting cultural intellectual property
- Indigenous communities often struggle to protect their cultural intellectual property, including traditional designs, techniques, and motifs, from being appropriated by non-Indigenous brands and designers
- There is a lack of legal frameworks and protections for Indigenous cultural heritage in the fashion industry, making it difficult for communities to control the use of their designs and receive proper compensation
- Some Indigenous communities are working to establish their own trademarks and copyrights to protect their cultural property and ensure that their designs are used respectfully and with permission
Sustainable and ethical practices
- Many Indigenous communities have long-standing traditions of sustainable and ethical fashion practices, using natural materials and techniques that prioritize environmental stewardship and social responsibility
- However, the mainstream fashion industry's focus on fast fashion and cheap production often conflicts with these values and can lead to the exploitation of Indigenous workers and resources
- Indigenous designers and brands are working to promote sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry, using eco-friendly materials and fair labor practices to create clothing that aligns with their cultural values
Future of Indigenous fashion
- As Indigenous fashion continues to gain recognition and popularity, there are opportunities for growth and empowerment for Indigenous designers and communities
- The future of Indigenous fashion involves preserving traditional knowledge, empowering Indigenous communities, and increasing the global presence and influence of Indigenous designers
Preserving traditional knowledge
- One of the key priorities for the future of Indigenous fashion is preserving the traditional knowledge, techniques, and designs that have been passed down for generations
- This involves supporting Indigenous elders and artisans in passing on their skills and knowledge to younger generations, ensuring the continuation of cultural traditions
- It also involves documenting and protecting Indigenous cultural heritage, including through the establishment of cultural centers, museums, and archives
Empowering Indigenous communities
- The growth of Indigenous fashion has the potential to empower Indigenous communities economically, socially, and culturally
- By supporting Indigenous-owned fashion brands and designers, consumers can help to create economic opportunities and jobs within Indigenous communities
- Indigenous fashion can also serve as a platform for raising awareness about Indigenous rights, cultures, and histories, helping to challenge stereotypes and promote greater understanding and respect
Growing global presence
- As Indigenous fashion gains more mainstream recognition and success, there are opportunities for Indigenous designers to increase their global presence and influence
- This includes participating in international fashion weeks, collaborating with global brands and retailers, and expanding their reach through e-commerce and social media
- By bringing Indigenous fashion to a global audience, designers can help to promote greater cultural understanding and appreciation, while also creating new economic opportunities for Indigenous communities
- The future of Indigenous fashion is bright, with the potential to celebrate and preserve cultural traditions while also innovating and adapting to the changing fashion landscape.
Key Terms to Review (25)
Andean textiles: Andean textiles refer to the traditional fabric and weaving techniques developed by Indigenous cultures in the Andean region of South America, particularly in countries like Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador. These textiles are renowned for their vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and strong cultural significance, often reflecting the rich history and identity of the communities that produce them.
Beading: Beading is a traditional craft technique that involves sewing or attaching small decorative beads to fabric or other materials. This intricate art form is an essential aspect of Indigenous fashion and design, often used to enhance clothing, accessories, and ceremonial items, reflecting cultural identity and heritage.
Ceremonial dress: Ceremonial dress refers to traditional garments worn during significant cultural, spiritual, or social events by Indigenous peoples. These garments often carry deep cultural meanings, representing identity, heritage, and connection to ancestral traditions. The design and materials used in ceremonial dress can vary widely among different Indigenous groups, reflecting their unique histories and values.
Cultural Appropriation: Cultural appropriation refers to the act of taking or borrowing elements from one culture by individuals or groups from another, often without permission or understanding of the original context. This often leads to a superficial or distorted representation of the appropriated culture, especially when it involves marginalized or Indigenous communities who have faced oppression and exploitation.
Decolonization: Decolonization refers to the process through which colonies achieve independence and autonomy from colonial powers, often involving a reclamation of cultural identity and self-determination. This process is deeply intertwined with addressing historical injustices, asserting Indigenous rights, and challenging systemic oppression.
Diana weyuka: Diana weyuka is a traditional textile technique practiced by Indigenous communities, especially among the Mixe people of Oaxaca, Mexico. This intricate art form involves the use of natural dyes and weaving techniques to create beautiful, culturally significant designs that often reflect the community's beliefs and history. The practice of diana weyuka showcases the deep connection between Indigenous peoples and their environment, as well as their commitment to preserving traditional craftsmanship.
Eco-fashion: Eco-fashion refers to clothing and accessories that are designed and produced with a focus on sustainability and environmental responsibility. This movement promotes the use of eco-friendly materials, ethical labor practices, and production methods that minimize harm to the environment. In the context of Indigenous fashion and design, eco-fashion can also celebrate traditional practices and materials that respect cultural heritage while addressing contemporary environmental challenges.
Ginew: Ginew is a term derived from the Ojibwe language that refers to deer sinew, which has traditionally been used in Indigenous cultures across North America for various purposes, including crafting tools, clothing, and artworks. The use of ginew in fashion and design reflects not only practical applications but also cultural significance, as it represents a deep connection to ancestral practices and the natural world.
Hybrid design: Hybrid design refers to the blending of traditional Indigenous aesthetics, materials, and techniques with contemporary styles and practices. This approach allows for the creation of innovative fashion and design that respects and honors Indigenous heritage while also appealing to modern audiences. It serves as a bridge between past and present, showcasing the adaptability and evolution of Indigenous cultural expressions in a globalized world.
Indian Removal Act: The Indian Removal Act was a law passed in 1830 that authorized the forced relocation of Native American tribes from their ancestral homelands in the southeastern United States to designated 'Indian Territory' west of the Mississippi River. This act was a pivotal moment in U.S. history, significantly impacting Indigenous peoples and their connections to land, culture, and sovereignty.
Inuit parkas: Inuit parkas are traditional outer garments made by the Inuit people, designed to provide warmth and protection in extreme cold weather conditions typical of Arctic environments. These parkas are often made from animal skins, such as seal or caribou, and feature unique design elements like hoods and fur trim to keep the wearer insulated from harsh winds and freezing temperatures.
Jamie okuma: Jamie Okuma is a prominent Indigenous fashion designer and artist known for her innovative work that combines traditional Native American techniques with contemporary fashion design. Her pieces often feature intricate beadwork, textiles, and themes that reflect her heritage, challenging stereotypes and promoting cultural identity through fashion.
Jared Yazzie: Jared Yazzie is a contemporary Indigenous fashion designer known for blending traditional Native American cultural elements with modern fashion aesthetics. His work showcases the rich heritage of Indigenous people while addressing social issues through his designs, creating a platform for representation and empowerment in the fashion industry.
Jingle dresses: Jingle dresses are a type of traditional garment worn by Indigenous women, particularly among the Ojibwe and other Great Lakes tribes. This dress is adorned with metal cones that create a jingling sound when the wearer moves, symbolizing healing and spiritual connection. The design and significance of jingle dresses have evolved, but they remain a vital part of Indigenous fashion, cultural expression, and ceremonial practices.
Moccasins: Moccasins are traditional footwear made from soft leather, often designed to be comfortable and flexible. They are closely tied to Indigenous cultures across North America and have evolved into various styles that reflect the unique cultural identities and histories of different tribes. Moccasins serve both practical purposes in everyday life and symbolic roles in ceremonies and cultural expressions.
Modern indigenous fashion: Modern indigenous fashion refers to contemporary clothing and design practices that draw inspiration from Indigenous cultural heritage, traditions, and aesthetics while adapting to modern contexts. This fashion movement often aims to reclaim cultural identity, challenge stereotypes, and promote social justice by integrating traditional techniques, materials, and motifs into innovative designs that resonate with today's society.
Navajo textiles: Navajo textiles are traditional woven fabrics created by the Navajo people, known for their intricate designs and vibrant colors. These textiles are not only functional but also serve as important cultural symbols, showcasing the artistry and heritage of the Navajo community. The techniques and patterns used in Navajo weaving reflect a deep connection to history, spirituality, and the land.
Plains beadwork: Plains beadwork refers to the intricate decorative art form created by Indigenous peoples of the Great Plains, primarily involving the use of beads to embellish clothing, accessories, and ceremonial items. This practice not only showcases artistic skills but also reflects cultural identity, storytelling, and social status among various tribes. It is a vibrant aspect of Indigenous fashion and design that has evolved over time while retaining its significance in contemporary cultural expressions.
Quillwork: Quillwork is a traditional Indigenous art form that involves the intricate use of porcupine quills to create decorative designs on various items, such as clothing, accessories, and tools. This technique showcases the craftsmanship and creativity of Indigenous artisans, highlighting cultural significance and storytelling through design. Quillwork is often found in visual arts and fashion, bridging the gap between functional items and aesthetic expression.
Regalia: Regalia refers to the ceremonial garments and accessories that signify status and identity within Indigenous cultures. These items are often elaborately designed and made from traditional materials, showcasing the rich heritage and artistry of Indigenous peoples. Regalia serves not just as clothing but as a powerful expression of cultural pride, spirituality, and connection to ancestral traditions.
Residential schools: Residential schools were government-funded, church-run institutions established in North America aimed at assimilating Indigenous children into Euro-Canadian culture. These schools sought to erase Indigenous identities by separating children from their families and communities, which had devastating impacts on cultural continuity, mental health, and social structures.
Sho sho esquiro: Sho sho esquiro is a term used to describe a traditional weaving technique practiced by Indigenous communities, particularly in Central and South America. This technique reflects not only the artistic expression of these cultures but also embodies their historical narratives, social structures, and relationships with the land. Sho sho esquiro plays a vital role in Indigenous fashion and design, showcasing cultural heritage through intricate patterns, colors, and symbolism that convey stories and identities.
Slow fashion: Slow fashion is a movement that promotes sustainable clothing production, prioritizing quality, ethical practices, and environmental consciousness over fast-paced trends and mass production. This concept connects to a broader awareness of the impact of fashion on the planet and communities, advocating for a mindful approach to clothing consumption that values craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
Tania Larsson: Tania Larsson is a prominent Indigenous fashion designer and artist known for her work that merges traditional Indigenous aesthetics with contemporary fashion. She emphasizes the importance of cultural storytelling and representation in her designs, aiming to challenge stereotypes and elevate Indigenous narratives through her creative expression.
Virgil Ortiz: Virgil Ortiz is a contemporary Native American artist and fashion designer known for his innovative work that merges traditional Pueblo aesthetics with modern design. He is a member of the Cochiti Pueblo tribe and uses his art to tell stories of Indigenous culture and history, often incorporating motifs from his heritage into his fashion collections. Ortiz has gained recognition for his unique approach, which revitalizes traditional crafts while addressing contemporary issues faced by Indigenous communities.