9.1 1930s Costume: Hollywood Glamour and the Great Depression
2 min read•july 24, 2024
dominated 1930s fashion, with stars inspiring public style through fan magazines and on-screen looks. , , and became popular, while actresses like and set specific trends in hair and clothing.
The greatly impacted clothing choices, emphasizing practicality and durability. Cheaper fabrics, home sewing, and repurposing became common. Social class differences were evident in fashion, with the upper class maintaining access to haute couture while others relied on options.
Hollywood's Influence and Economic Realities
Hollywood glamour in 1930s fashion
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Top images from around the web for Hollywood glamour in 1930s fashion
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Fashion Portraits: Jean Harlow by Clarence Sinclair Bull, 1932 – Harlow Heaven View original
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- Hollywood star system rose increasing public interest in celebrity style with fan magazines popularizing movie star looks
- Glamorous on-screen costumes featured bias-cut gowns slinky silhouettes and backless dresses influencing public fashion choices
- Public adopted Hollywood styles in evening wear inspired by film costumes and makeup trends mimicking screen sirens (smoky eyes, red lips)
- Specific actresses influenced trends Jean Harlow's platinum blonde hair sparked a dyeing craze Greta Garbo's wide-shouldered suits empowered women's fashion and Mae West's figure-hugging dresses celebrated curves
Key designers and styles of 1930s
- incorporated in fashion innovatively using zippers and (, lobster dress)
- pioneered the bias cut creating fluid body-skimming silhouettes that revolutionized women's clothing
- popularized and continued influence of the "" making luxury accessible
- known for elegant understated designs created the setting bridal fashion trends
- Key styles included longer hemlines compared to 1920s emphasis on and and -inspired prints and patterns (geometric shapes, stylized florals)
Socioeconomic Factors in 1930s Fashion
Great Depression's impact on clothing
- Practicality and durability became paramount using cheaper more durable fabrics (, ) and emphasizing versatile clothing pieces ()
- Home sewing surged in popularity with increased use of sewing patterns and repurposing and mending existing garments ()
- Retail and manufacturing changed with growth of ready-to-wear market and decline in custom-made clothing making fashion more accessible
- Government initiatives like sewing rooms provided employment and promoted American-made textiles and designs
Fashion across 1930s social classes
- Upper class maintained access to haute couture followed rapidly changing trends and emphasized formal wear for social occasions (, )
- Middle class increasingly relied on ready-to-wear clothing attempted to emulate Hollywood and upper-class styles on a budget and focused on practical
- Working class emphasized durability and functionality used less expensive fabrics like cotton and wool and adopted new fashion trends more slowly
- Urban areas more influenced by Hollywood and European styles while rural areas maintained more traditional practical clothing (, )
- Women's fashion showed more dramatic changes while men's fashion remained more conservative across classes reflecting societal gender roles
Key Terms to Review (33)
Art Deco: Art Deco is a visual arts design style that emerged in the early 20th century, characterized by its bold geometric shapes, vibrant colors, and luxurious materials. This movement reflects the cultural optimism and technological advancements of the time, influencing architecture, fashion, and decorative arts during the Roaring Twenties and into the 1930s.
Backless dresses: Backless dresses are garments characterized by the absence of fabric covering the back, creating a striking and alluring silhouette. This design gained popularity during the 1930s, particularly in the context of Hollywood glamour, where stars embraced daring styles that showcased their figures while also reflecting the economic challenges of the Great Depression.
Ball gowns: Ball gowns are formal dresses characterized by their elegant designs, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics, typically worn at grand social events like balls and galas. These garments were especially popular during the 1930s, where they became synonymous with Hollywood glamour, reflecting both the opulence of the film industry and the societal aspirations during the Great Depression.
Bias-cut gowns: Bias-cut gowns are dresses made from fabric that is cut on the diagonal, or bias, of the material rather than straight along the grain. This cutting technique allows the fabric to drape more fluidly and conform to the body’s shape, creating a silhouette that enhances curves and gives an elegant, flowing appearance. Bias-cut gowns became particularly popular in the 1930s, as Hollywood glamorized this style, making it a symbol of femininity during the era of the Great Depression.
Coco Chanel: Coco Chanel was a groundbreaking French fashion designer who revolutionized women's fashion in the early 20th century, known for her modernist approach that emphasized comfort and elegance. Her designs, such as the iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume and the Chanel suit, symbolized the changing roles of women in society, particularly during significant historical events like World War I and the Roaring Twenties.
Costume jewelry: Costume jewelry refers to decorative pieces that are made from inexpensive materials, often mimicking fine jewelry but designed to be affordable and fashionable. These items became popular for their ability to add flair to an outfit without the expense of genuine gems and metals, making them particularly relevant during times of economic hardship and social change.
Cotton: Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, which is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions. This versatile fiber has played a crucial role in costume history, influencing fashion, production methods, and socio-economic conditions across different eras.
Day-to-night dresses: Day-to-night dresses are versatile garments designed to seamlessly transition from daytime casual to evening formal wear. These dresses gained popularity during the 1930s, reflecting the changing social norms and the influence of Hollywood glamour amidst the economic challenges of the Great Depression.
Duchess of Windsor's wedding dress: The Duchess of Windsor's wedding dress is a renowned gown worn by Wallis Simpson during her marriage to Edward VIII in 1937. This dress is notable not only for its elegant design but also for the cultural implications it carried, symbolizing a significant shift in royal norms and fashion during the era of Hollywood glamour and the Great Depression.
Elsa Schiaparelli: Elsa Schiaparelli was a groundbreaking Italian fashion designer known for her innovative designs and surrealist influences, particularly during the 1920s and 1930s. Her work challenged traditional fashion norms and embraced modernism, making her a significant figure in the world of fashion. Schiaparelli's creations often featured bold colors, unexpected materials, and playful motifs that aligned well with the spirit of the Roaring Twenties and Hollywood glamour.
Flour Sack Dresses: Flour sack dresses are garments made from the fabric of flour sacks, which became popular during the Great Depression as a practical and resourceful way for women to create clothing. These dresses were often handmade and featured simple designs, reflecting the economic constraints of the era while also embodying a sense of creativity and resilience among women facing hardship. The trend not only provided a solution to limited resources but also connected to the broader cultural movements of the 1930s that sought to balance functionality with modesty and style.
Fluid silhouettes: Fluid silhouettes refer to clothing designs that emphasize soft lines, flowing forms, and a sense of movement, often created by draping and layering fabrics. This style was especially prominent in the 1930s, reflecting both the glamour of Hollywood and the social challenges of the Great Depression. The focus on fluidity allowed garments to accentuate the body's natural curves while providing an elegant appearance that resonated with the era's desire for sophistication.
Great Depression: The Great Depression was a severe worldwide economic downturn that began in 1929 and lasted through the late 1930s. It was marked by widespread unemployment, poverty, and significant declines in industrial production and international trade, fundamentally altering social and cultural dynamics across nations. This period profoundly influenced fashion and costume design, particularly in Hollywood, where glamour became a form of escapism for audiences facing harsh realities.
Greta Garbo: Greta Garbo was a Swedish-American actress who became one of the most iconic figures of Hollywood's Golden Age in the 1920s and 1930s. Known for her striking beauty and enigmatic persona, she epitomized the glamorous yet melancholic image of women in film during the Great Depression, becoming a symbol of both escapism and sophistication in a time of economic hardship.
Hollywood Glamour: Hollywood glamour refers to the extravagant and idealized portrayal of beauty, style, and luxury as depicted in films from the 1930s. This aesthetic emerged during the Great Depression, providing an escapist fantasy for audiences through opulent costumes, stunning visuals, and star-studded performances. It played a crucial role in shaping popular culture and fashion during this era, as Hollywood became a symbol of aspiration and allure despite the economic hardships faced by many.
Jean Harlow: Jean Harlow was an iconic American actress and a leading figure in Hollywood during the 1930s, often celebrated for her platinum blonde hair and glamorous persona. She epitomized the 'Hollywood Glamour' style that defined the era, becoming a symbol of the cinematic world amidst the struggles of the Great Depression. Her unique fashion sense and on-screen charisma influenced women's fashion and beauty standards of the time, making her a lasting figure in both film and costume history.
Little black dress: The little black dress (LBD) is a versatile and iconic garment typically made of black fabric, originally designed to be simple and elegant. It became a symbol of sophistication and chicness in women's fashion, especially during the 1930s when Hollywood glamour was on the rise. The LBD is celebrated for its ability to be dressed up or down, making it a staple in women's wardrobes, embodying both practicality and style in an era marked by economic challenges.
Madeleine vionnet: Madeleine Vionnet was a revolutionary French fashion designer known for her innovative and artistic approach to women's clothing in the early 20th century. She is often celebrated for popularizing the bias cut, which allowed fabrics to drape beautifully and hug the body in a flattering manner. Her work significantly influenced the styles of the Roaring Twenties, aligning with the flapper aesthetic and the modernist movement, while also leaving a lasting impact on Hollywood glamour in the 1930s.
Mainbocher: Mainbocher, also known as Mainbocher, was a prominent fashion designer known for his elegant and sophisticated creations during the early to mid-20th century. He gained fame in the 1930s for his innovative designs that combined American practicality with French elegance, making significant contributions to Hollywood glamour during the Great Depression while also influencing the global fashion landscape.
Multi-purpose garments: Multi-purpose garments are clothing items designed to serve multiple functions or be worn in various settings, providing versatility and practicality. These garments often combine style with functionality, allowing wearers to transition from casual to formal occasions seamlessly. During challenging economic times, such as the Great Depression, the demand for such adaptable clothing increased as people sought to maximize their wardrobe's utility.
Natural waistline: The natural waistline is the area around the narrowest part of the torso, typically located just above the belly button and below the ribcage. This anatomical feature became a focal point in fashion during the 1930s, often emphasized in clothing designs that aimed to create a flattering silhouette. Designers used this line to enhance the feminine figure and create an hourglass shape, which was particularly popular in dresses and skirts of the time.
Overalls: Overalls are a type of garment typically made from durable fabric, designed to cover the body from the waist down and are secured by shoulder straps. They became popular as functional workwear during economic hardships, providing practicality and ease of movement for laborers. Their rise in fashion during the 1930s and later influences from military uniforms reflect the changing needs and aesthetics of society amidst both glamour and hardship.
Puff sleeves: Puff sleeves are a style of sleeve that is gathered or pleated at the shoulder, creating a voluminous, rounded shape. This dramatic silhouette was particularly popular during the 1930s, where it became synonymous with Hollywood glamour while also reflecting the economic challenges of the Great Depression. Puff sleeves can often be seen in evening gowns and dresses, providing an element of elegance and sophistication that appealed to both filmmakers and the general public during this era.
Rayon: Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from regenerated cellulose, derived from natural sources like wood pulp or cotton. As one of the earliest manufactured fibers, rayon played a pivotal role in transforming the textile industry, making fabrics more accessible and versatile across various historical periods.
Ready-to-wear: Ready-to-wear refers to mass-produced clothing that is made in standard sizes and sold directly to consumers without the need for custom tailoring. This concept revolutionized the fashion industry by making stylish clothing accessible to a broader audience, reflecting changing social dynamics and economic conditions.
Shoulder pads: Shoulder pads are padded inserts placed in garments, designed to enhance the silhouette by adding structure and definition to the shoulders. They became a prominent feature in women's fashion during the 1930s, contributing to a more powerful and glamorous image, which was particularly popularized by Hollywood actresses of the time. These accessories not only served a practical purpose of improving the fit and drape of clothing but also symbolized strength and femininity in a period marked by social change.
Slinky silhouettes: Slinky silhouettes refer to the elegant and body-hugging shapes of women's fashion during the 1930s, characterized by flowing lines that accentuate the natural curves of the body. This style emerged as a response to both the glamorous aesthetics of Hollywood and the social realities of the Great Depression, balancing sophistication with practicality. The use of bias-cut fabrics played a significant role in achieving this sleek and flattering silhouette, contributing to the overall allure of 1930s attire.
Surrealist influences: Surrealist influences refer to the artistic and cultural movement that sought to unleash the unconscious mind, often blending dreamlike imagery with unexpected juxtapositions. This movement emerged in the early 20th century and significantly impacted various fields, including literature, visual arts, and, importantly, costume design in the 1930s. During this time, the blend of surrealism with Hollywood glamour provided a unique aesthetic that challenged traditional norms and represented the escapism desired during the Great Depression.
Synthetic materials: Synthetic materials are man-made fabrics produced through chemical processes, often derived from petroleum or other synthetic sources. These materials revolutionized the textile industry by offering unique properties such as durability, elasticity, and resistance to wrinkling or shrinking. Their introduction marked a significant shift in fashion and costume design, especially during times of economic hardship and technological advancement.
Trompe l'oeil prints: Trompe l'oeil prints are artistic designs that create an optical illusion, making objects appear three-dimensional on a flat surface. This technique was particularly popular in the 1930s as a means to add depth and visual interest to garments during a time when fashion was influenced by both Hollywood glamour and the realities of the Great Depression. These prints allowed designers to experiment with perspective and creativity, often imitating expensive materials or elaborate decorations, thereby catering to the desire for luxury amidst economic hardship.
Tuxedos: A tuxedo is a formal suit typically worn for evening events, characterized by its black or dark color, satin lapels, and a bow tie. It represents sophistication and elegance, becoming an iconic symbol of Hollywood glamour during the 1930s when the film industry thrived despite the challenges of the Great Depression.
Work boots: Work boots are sturdy footwear designed to provide support, protection, and durability for individuals working in challenging environments. These boots became more prominent in the 1930s, particularly in relation to the economic struggles of the Great Depression, as they represented a shift towards practicality and functionality in clothing. Their design often includes features such as steel toes, reinforced soles, and waterproof materials, making them suitable for various labor-intensive jobs while reflecting the era's focus on resilience and hard work.
Work Projects Administration (WPA): The Work Projects Administration (WPA) was a New Deal agency established in 1935 to provide jobs for millions of unemployed Americans during the Great Depression. It focused on public works projects, infrastructure improvements, and arts programs, significantly impacting the economy and culture of the time, including the world of costume design and fashion.