7.2 Romantic Era Costume: The Return of Opulence
2 min read•july 24, 2024
The Romantic era marked a dramatic shift in fashion from the simple Neoclassical style. Skirts ballooned, sleeves puffed, and waists cinched tight. Gone were the light fabrics and Grecian drapes, replaced by rich textiles and elaborate trimmings.
This change reflected broader cultural shifts. Gothic novels, historical romances, and nature-inspired art influenced clothing. Styles drew from Medieval and Renaissance looks, while exotic touches added drama. Fashion became a canvas for expressing the era's romantic ideals.
Transition from Neoclassical to Romantic Era
Neoclassical to Romantic shift
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- Late 1820s to early 1830s marked transition lasting until around 1850
- High-waisted columnar shapes evolved into hourglass figures with increased volume in skirts and sleeves
- Light sheer fabrics (muslin) replaced by heavier luxurious textiles (, velvets)
- Minimal embellishments gave way to elaborate trimmings and decorations (, , )
- Inspiration shifted from Ancient Greece and Rome to Medieval and Renaissance periods ()
Key elements of Romantic fashion
- Bell-shaped skirts achieved volume through crinolines and petticoats with hemlines slightly above ground
- Tight bodices featured corsets for small waists, low off-shoulder necklines, and pointed waistlines
- Elaborate updos with curls and braids, center parts with side ringlets, adorned with combs and flowers
- Accessories included bonnets, parasols, fans, gloves, reticules (small handbags), shawls, and capes
Influences and Styles
Romanticism's influence on style
- Gothic novels inspired dark dramatic elements (black lace, deep colors)
- Historical romances promoted interest in past eras (Renaissance-inspired sleeves)
- Romantic painters depicted idealized beauty influencing fashion ideals
- Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood's medieval-inspired aesthetics shaped clothing styles
- Theater and opera costumes influenced everyday fashion with dramatic exaggerated styles
- Nature-inspired motifs appeared in floral fabric patterns and organic jewelry shapes
- incorporated Oriental and Middle Eastern styles (Turkish-inspired turbans)
Sleeves and silhouettes in Romantic era
- Sleeve styles evolved:
- Gigot or leg-of-mutton sleeves (1830s)
- (false undersleeves)
- (1850s)
- Bodices featured V-shaped waistlines, returning to natural waistlines by 1840s with dropped shoulder lines
- Skirts progressed from dome-shaped to increased fullness towards 1850s with hoops and crinolines
- Men's fashion emphasized broad shoulders and narrow waists with , , high collars, and
Key Terms to Review (27)
Bishop sleeves: Bishop sleeves are a style of sleeves characterized by their fullness and volume, typically gathered at the shoulder and tapering at the wrist. This design evokes a sense of elegance and romanticism, often associated with the opulent fashions of the Romantic Era. Bishop sleeves can be made from various fabrics and are often featured in dresses, blouses, and gowns, reflecting the era's emphasis on soft lines and intricate detailing.
Brocades: Brocades are richly decorative fabrics, often made of silk, that feature raised patterns or designs woven into the material. These fabrics are characterized by their opulent appearance and luxurious texture, making them a symbol of wealth and status in various historical periods. They played a significant role in the clothing of elite classes, especially during times when fashion was closely linked to power and social hierarchy.
Bustle: A bustle is a padding or framework worn under the back of a woman's dress, designed to create a voluminous silhouette by lifting and expanding the fabric at the back. This garment feature became particularly popular during the late 19th century, contributing to the dramatic hourglass shape that defined women's fashion in this era. The bustle reflects both the aesthetic values of the time and the social conditions surrounding women's roles and expectations.
Class Distinction: Class distinction refers to the social stratification that categorizes individuals and groups based on economic, social, and cultural differences. This concept often manifests in clothing choices, where fashion becomes a reflection of one's status, wealth, and identity, influencing styles and trends throughout history.
Corset: A corset is a structured garment worn to shape and support the torso, typically emphasizing a narrow waist and enhancing the bust and hips. It played a central role in women's fashion from the late Middle Ages through the early 20th century, reflecting societal ideals of femininity, health, and moral values while also influencing silhouette and body shape during various historical periods.
Cravats: A cravat is a type of neckwear that originated in the 17th century, characterized by a strip of cloth worn around the neck, often tied in a knot or bow. It became a fashionable accessory during the 18th century, evolving through various styles and materials, reflecting changing tastes and social norms. The cravat symbolizes the transition from more ornate fashion to simpler designs influenced by cultural shifts, particularly during times of political and social upheaval.
Crinoline: Crinoline is a stiff fabric or a structure made from horsehair and cotton or linen, used primarily to create volume in women's skirts during the 19th century. This garment component became a symbol of the extravagant fashion of the Romantic and Victorian eras, playing a key role in shaping the silhouette of women's dresses, emphasizing an hourglass figure while allowing for mobility and comfort.
Embroidery: Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric using a needle and thread or yarn, often incorporating various techniques such as stitching, embellishments, and patterns to enhance the visual appeal of garments and textiles. This craft has played a significant role in various historical periods, reflecting cultural aesthetics, social status, and technological advancements in textile creation.
Engageantes: Engageantes are detachable lace or fabric ruffles that were commonly used during the Romantic Era to adorn the sleeves of women's dresses. They added a dramatic and decorative element to the gown, enhancing the opulence and femininity characteristic of this period in fashion history. Engageantes also reflect the elaborate style and attention to detail that defined the clothing of the time, serving both functional and aesthetic purposes.
Exotic influences: Exotic influences refer to the incorporation of styles, materials, and motifs from distant cultures into local fashion, which became particularly prominent during periods of artistic revival and fascination with foreign lands. This blending of elements often results in garments that are lavish, ornate, and reflect a desire for opulence, making them appealing to those who seek to express their wealth and status. During this time, designers were inspired by global aesthetics, creating garments that showcased intricate details and luxurious fabrics.
Feminine ideal: The feminine ideal refers to a cultural standard that defines the attributes, appearance, and behavior considered desirable for women, often promoting an image of beauty, grace, and domesticity. This concept has evolved throughout history, influencing fashion and societal expectations of women, particularly during periods of significant change in aesthetics and gender roles.
Floral patterns: Floral patterns refer to designs that feature flowers and botanical elements, often used in textiles, garments, and various decorative arts. These patterns gained immense popularity during the Romantic Era, reflecting a broader cultural fascination with nature, beauty, and opulence. The incorporation of floral designs in clothing not only served an aesthetic purpose but also symbolized romantic ideals and the desire for a connection to nature.
French Revolution: The French Revolution was a period of radical social and political change in France from 1789 to 1799, leading to the rise of democratic ideals and the end of monarchy. This upheaval not only transformed France but also inspired revolutionary movements worldwide, affecting fashion and cultural expressions significantly during and after its occurrence.
Frock coats: Frock coats are knee-length outer garments worn by men, characterized by a fitted bodice and flared skirt. These coats became prominent during the Romantic Era, symbolizing the return of opulence in fashion and reflecting the changes in societal norms and aesthetics. Their structured design often included details such as lapels and pockets, making them a staple for formal occasions, while also showcasing the wearer's social status and taste.
Gigot sleeves: Gigot sleeves, also known as 'leg-of-mutton' sleeves, are a style of sleeve characterized by their voluminous shape that is gathered at the shoulder and tapers down to a fitted wrist. This design creates a dramatic silhouette and was particularly popular during the Romantic Era, a time when fashion embraced opulence and theatricality in clothing.
Gothic revival: The gothic revival was an architectural and artistic movement that emerged in the late 18th century and reached its height in the mid-19th century, characterized by a renewed interest in medieval gothic styles. This movement not only influenced architecture, featuring pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses, but also extended into fashion and costume design, aligning with the romantic era's fascination with history and opulence.
Great Exhibition: The Great Exhibition was the first international exhibition of manufactured products and design, held in 1851 at the Crystal Palace in London. It showcased the advancements of the Industrial Revolution, displaying items from around the world and representing a shift towards modern consumer culture and an appreciation for design and craftsmanship.
Industrial Revolution: The Industrial Revolution was a period of significant economic, technological, and social change that began in the late 18th century and continued into the 19th century, marked by the transition from agrarian economies to industrialized and urban societies. This transformation impacted various aspects of life, including production methods, labor practices, and consumer culture, leading to the emergence of new social classes and changing lifestyles.
Lace: Lace is a delicate, intricate fabric created by weaving or knitting threads into decorative patterns. Its origins can be traced back to the late Middle Ages, and it became especially popular in women's clothing during the 17th to 19th centuries, enhancing the elegance and opulence of garments like mantuas, Rococo dresses, and Romantic era fashions.
Pagoda sleeves: Pagoda sleeves are a distinctive style of sleeve characterized by their wide, flaring design that extends from the shoulder to the wrist, resembling the shape of a pagoda or temple. This unique silhouette was particularly popular in women's fashion during the Romantic Era, reflecting the overall opulence and emphasis on elaborate detailing that defined this period's costume design.
Pastel colors: Pastel colors are soft, light shades of colors that have a high level of white mixed in, resulting in a muted appearance. These colors became particularly prominent during the Romantic Era, reflecting the era's emphasis on emotion, softness, and a break from the starkness of previous styles. The use of pastel colors in fashion and design was often associated with a sense of femininity and romanticism, playing a significant role in costume aesthetics during this opulent time.
Ribbons: Ribbons are narrow strips of fabric that have been used for decorative purposes in fashion and costume history. They serve to embellish garments, accessories, and hairstyles, contributing to an overall aesthetic of elegance and playfulness. In periods such as Rococo and the Romantic Era, ribbons became essential elements that highlighted the lightness and frivolity of clothing styles, as well as the opulence characteristic of these times.
Romanticism: Romanticism is an artistic and intellectual movement that emerged in the late 18th century, emphasizing emotion, individualism, and nature over reason and industrialization. This movement influenced various aspects of culture, including literature, art, and fashion, leading to a revival of opulent styles and a longing for the past, particularly in the context of changing social and political landscapes.
Shawl: A shawl is a versatile piece of fabric, often worn over the shoulders, that serves both functional and decorative purposes. In the context of the Romantic Era, shawls became symbols of elegance and opulence, often featuring intricate designs and luxurious materials that complemented the extravagant clothing styles of the time. Shawls were not only practical for warmth but also added an air of sophistication to a woman's ensemble, becoming a staple in fashionable wardrobes.
Silk: Silk is a luxurious, natural fiber produced by silkworms during the process of cocoon formation, known for its smooth texture, luster, and strength. This versatile fabric has played a significant role in various historical periods, influencing fashion and trade while symbolizing wealth and status across cultures.
Tailcoats: Tailcoats are a type of formal coat characterized by their cut, featuring a front that is shorter than the back, which extends into two 'tails.' These garments were prominent in men's fashion during the late 18th and 19th centuries and became a symbol of elegance and status. Their design evolved through various historical periods, showcasing shifts in societal norms and tastes.
Velvet: Velvet is a luxurious fabric characterized by its soft texture and rich appearance, made by weaving two layers of fabric together and cutting the top layer to create a dense pile. This sumptuous material has been historically favored for its opulence, making it a popular choice in various periods, particularly during times when displays of wealth and status were paramount.