6.2 Women's Costume: From Mantua to Chemise à la Reine
2 min read•july 24, 2024
Women's fashion in the 18th century was a wild ride of changing silhouettes and styles. From the wide-hipped to the flowing , clothes reflected social status and cultural shifts.
The French court, especially , set the fashion tone. 's influence was huge, popularizing sky-high hairstyles and simpler dresses. These trends spread across Europe through dolls, engravings, and fashion plates.
18th Century Women's Fashion Evolution
Evolution of 18th century silhouettes
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- Mantua dominated early 18th century characterized by open robe-style gown with voluminous skirt supported by panniers creating wide hip silhouette fitted bodice adorned with decorative stomacher (triangular panel)
- emerged mid-18th century also known as featured loose pleats cascading from shoulders to hem creating wide rectangular silhouette embellished with elaborate trimmings and ruched details ()
- Chemise à la reine revolutionized late 18th century fashion introduced lightweight flowing gown with simple tubular silhouette crafted from fine cotton or linen cinched at waist with sash marked shift towards more natural form
French court's influence on fashion
- Versailles served as epicenter of style innovation courtiers vied for attention through increasingly elaborate dress showcasing wealth and status
- Marie Antoinette's fashion influence popularized extravagant hairstyle towering up to 3 feet high introduced controversial chemise à la reine promoted simpler pastoral-inspired fashions ()
- French fashion disseminated throughout Europe via intricately dressed fashion dolls sent to other courts engravings and fashion plates circulated internationally ()
Fashion in the Enlightenment era
- Clothing choices reflected social status sumptuary laws regulated fabric types and ornamentation by class luxury materials like and indicated wealth
- ideals influenced shift towards simpler styles in late 18th century neoclassical aesthetics inspired by ancient Greece and Rome gained popularity
- Fashion became political statement Marie Antoinette's adoption of simpler styles attempt to connect with common people revolutionary fashion rejected aristocratic excess favored
- Rise of fashion as self-expression fueled by increased access to fashion information through and prints growing middle class participated in evolving trends
Accessories and hairstyles of 18th century
- Accessories enhanced outfits fans served as communication tools and status symbols masks provided anonymity at muffs offered warmth and fashion statement
- Hairstyles evolved throughout century early 18th century saw tall lace headdress mid to late 18th century dominated by pouf elaborate hairstyle incorporating fake hair padding late century embraced style inspired by classical antiquity
- Headwear varied by occasion worn for informal settings wide-brimmed hats protected from sun during outdoor activities elaborately decorated caps adorned formal ensembles
- Makeup and beauty practices included white lead-based face powder creating pale complexion rouge applied to cheeks and lips beauty patches (mouches) strategically placed on face as fashion statement and to cover blemishes
Key Terms to Review (20)
à la grecque: À la grecque refers to a style of women's dress from the late 18th century that was characterized by its soft, flowing lines and neoclassical inspiration. This fashion embraced the simplicity and elegance associated with ancient Greek attire, often featuring high waistlines, lightweight fabrics, and draped silhouettes that accentuated the natural form, promoting an idealized vision of femininity.
Brocade: Brocade is a rich fabric that often features intricate patterns woven into the material, typically with gold or silver threads. This luxurious textile has been historically significant in various fashion eras, symbolizing wealth and status while being used in both women's and men's garments.
Chemise à la reine: The chemise à la reine is a light, flowing gown that emerged in the late 18th century, characterized by its loose fit and simple design. Often made from white muslin, this garment represented a shift towards a more natural and relaxed style of women's fashion, moving away from the heavily structured silhouettes of previous decades. It was popularly associated with the French court, particularly with Marie Antoinette, who helped popularize this trend as part of a broader movement towards neoclassicism in fashion.
Enlightenment: The Enlightenment was an intellectual and cultural movement that emerged in the late 17th and 18th centuries, emphasizing reason, individualism, and skepticism of traditional authority. This period encouraged the exploration of new ideas and philosophies that ultimately influenced various aspects of society, including arts and fashion, paving the way for significant changes in women's costume from ornate garments to simpler styles.
Fontange: The fontange is a type of elaborate lace headdress that became popular among women in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, particularly in France. This intricate headpiece, often characterized by its tall structure and cascading lace, symbolized the opulence and fashion trends of the Baroque era, while also reflecting the social status of women in European courts. The fontange often accompanied the mantua dress, showcasing the grandeur of women's attire during this period.
Journal des dames et des modes: The 'journal des dames et des modes' was a French fashion magazine that began publication in 1797 and played a vital role in the dissemination of fashion trends during a time of significant social change. This publication highlighted women's clothing styles, featuring illustrations and detailed descriptions that influenced both high society and everyday dress. It also reflected the evolving roles of women in society, showcasing how fashion was intertwined with cultural identity and social status.
Lace: Lace is a delicate, intricate fabric created by weaving or knitting threads into decorative patterns. Its origins can be traced back to the late Middle Ages, and it became especially popular in women's clothing during the 17th to 19th centuries, enhancing the elegance and opulence of garments like mantuas, Rococo dresses, and Romantic era fashions.
Mantua: The mantua is a style of women's dress that originated in the late 17th century, characterized by its flowing lines and elegant silhouette. This garment was often worn over a petticoat and featured a fitted bodice with a loose, flowing skirt, creating an impression of grandeur and femininity. It played a significant role in the evolution of women's fashion, leading towards the more relaxed styles seen in later periods.
Marie Antoinette: Marie Antoinette was the last queen of France before the French Revolution, known for her extravagant lifestyle and controversial image. Her life and style epitomized the opulence of the Rococo period, leading to her association with the excesses that contributed to the public's discontent leading up to the revolution. As a symbol of aristocratic privilege, her fashion choices greatly influenced women's costume during this transformative era in French history.
Masquerade balls: Masquerade balls were lavish social events characterized by guests wearing masks and elaborate costumes, often held in the 17th and 18th centuries. These gatherings served as a form of entertainment and social interaction, allowing individuals to express their creativity and engage in playful anonymity. The grandeur of these events often showcased the latest fashions, including garments like the mantua and chemise à la reine, reflecting the evolving trends in women's costume during this period.
Mob caps: Mob caps are a type of women's headwear that became popular in the 18th century, particularly during the Rococo period. These caps were typically made from lightweight fabric and featured a round, gathered shape, often with lace or ruffles. They served both practical and decorative purposes, protecting the hair and enhancing the overall silhouette of women's costumes as styles transitioned from the elaborate mantua to the simpler chemise à la reine.
Periodicals: Periodicals are publications released at regular intervals, such as daily, weekly, monthly, or quarterly, that provide current information, research, or commentary on various subjects. They play a crucial role in disseminating knowledge and keeping readers informed about trends, innovations, and scholarly discussions related to fashion and costume history.
Petit trianon: The Petit Trianon is a small chateau located on the grounds of the Palace of Versailles, built during the reign of King Louis XV for his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. It later became a favorite retreat for Queen Marie Antoinette, who transformed it into an intimate space that reflected her personal style and preferences, connecting it to shifts in women's fashion from the elaborate mantua to the more relaxed chemise à la reine.
Pouf: A pouf is a hairstyle that became popular in the 18th century, characterized by its high and voluminous shape, often styled with the aid of padding or supports. This elaborate coiffure was a statement of fashion and status during the transition from the mantua to simpler styles like the chemise à la reine, reflecting both aesthetic and social changes in women's attire.
Robe à la française: The robe à la française is a style of women's dress that emerged in France during the late 17th century, characterized by its flowing silhouette and distinctive back pleating. This gown typically features a fitted bodice and wide skirts supported by petticoats, creating an elegant and opulent look. Its design reflects the Rococo aesthetic, emphasizing lightness and femininity, which were central to women's fashion during this period.
Sack-back gown: The sack-back gown is a historical women's garment characterized by its loose, flowing silhouette and distinctive back design that features pleats falling loosely from the shoulders. This gown became popular in the early 18th century and is notable for its comfortable fit, which marked a shift away from the more structured bodices of earlier fashions. It exemplifies the transition towards greater ease in women's clothing, reflecting societal changes in attitudes towards femininity and practicality during this era.
Silk: Silk is a luxurious, natural fiber produced by silkworms during the process of cocoon formation, known for its smooth texture, luster, and strength. This versatile fabric has played a significant role in various historical periods, influencing fashion and trade while symbolizing wealth and status across cultures.
Tricolor cockades: Tricolor cockades are decorative, ribbon-like accessories that feature three colors, traditionally symbolizing political or national identity. They gained prominence during the French Revolution, representing the revolutionary ideals of liberty, equality, and fraternity, while also being a fashion statement for both men and women during this transformative period in clothing history.
Versailles: Versailles refers to the Palace of Versailles, a symbol of the absolute monarchy and the grandeur of the French Baroque style, which became the political center of France under Louis XIV. The palace not only showcased opulent architecture and lavish gardens but also served as a backdrop for the display of power and prestige in 17th and 18th century France, heavily influencing women's fashion trends during this period.
Watteau Pleats: Watteau pleats are a type of decorative pleating that originated in the early 18th century, characterized by soft, flowing folds that drape elegantly from the back of a gown. Named after the French painter Antoine Watteau, these pleats are typically seen in the context of dresses like the robe à la française, where they enhance the silhouette and create a romantic aesthetic. They are often paired with luxurious fabrics and emphasize the graceful movements of the wearer, contributing to the overall femininity of the garment.