👯‍♀️Costume History Unit 1 – Costume History: Intro and Research Methods

What's This Unit All About?

• Introduces the study of costume history and its significance in understanding past societies and cultures
• Explores the evolution of clothing styles, materials, and construction techniques throughout history
• Examines the social, cultural, and economic factors that influence fashion and dress
• Highlights the importance of studying costume history for designers, historians, and anthropologists
• Provides an overview of the key research methods and resources used in the field of costume history
• Emphasizes the interdisciplinary nature of costume history, drawing from fields such as art history, sociology, and material culture studies

Key Time Periods and Styles

• Ancient civilizations (Egyptians, Greeks, Romans) and their distinctive clothing styles and accessories
• Medieval period characterized by the influence of the Catholic Church and the development of sumptuary laws
• Renaissance era marked by the rise of individualism and the emergence of fashion as a concept
• Baroque and Rococo periods known for elaborate and ornate clothing styles, reflecting the opulence of the aristocracy
• 19th century featuring the Industrial Revolution, which transformed clothing production and consumption
  • Victorian era (1837-1901) characterized by strict social norms and highly structured clothing styles
  • Belle Époque (1871-1914) known for its elegant and feminine silhouettes
• 20th century marked by rapid changes in fashion, influenced by social, cultural, and technological developments
  • Roaring Twenties (1920s) celebrated for its liberation of women's clothing and the rise of the "flapper" style
  • Post-World War II period (1940s-1950s) defined by the New Look and the return to feminine silhouettes

Research Methods 101

• Importance of using a variety of research methods to gather and analyze information about historical clothing
• Archival research involves studying primary sources such as photographs, illustrations, and written accounts
• Object-based research focuses on examining extant garments and accessories to gain insights into construction techniques, materials, and design details
• Iconographic analysis involves interpreting visual representations of clothing in art, such as paintings and sculptures
• Oral history interviews with individuals who have firsthand knowledge of specific time periods or clothing styles
• Experimental archaeology involves recreating historical garments using period-appropriate materials and techniques to better understand the construction process
• Interdisciplinary approaches, such as combining historical research with material culture studies or sociology, to gain a more comprehensive understanding of costume history

Primary vs. Secondary Sources

• Primary sources are original materials created during the time period being studied (letters, diaries, photographs, extant garments)
  • Provide firsthand accounts and direct evidence of clothing styles, materials, and construction techniques
  • Examples include fashion plates, advertisements, and personal correspondence
• Secondary sources are materials created after the time period being studied, often by scholars or researchers (books, articles, documentaries)
  • Offer interpretations, analyses, and syntheses of primary sources and other research
  • Examples include scholarly articles, museum exhibition catalogs, and costume history textbooks
• Importance of using both primary and secondary sources to gain a comprehensive understanding of costume history
• Evaluating the reliability and credibility of sources, considering factors such as the author's expertise and potential biases

Where to Find Costume Info

• Museums and galleries with costume collections (Metropolitan Museum of Art, Victoria and Albert Museum)
  • Offer opportunities to view and study extant garments and accessories firsthand
  • Provide access to archival materials, such as photographs and illustrations
• Libraries and archives with special collections related to costume history (Fashion Institute of Technology Library, British Library)
  • House primary sources, such as fashion magazines, pattern books, and personal papers of designers and fashion industry professionals
  • Provide access to secondary sources, such as books and scholarly articles
• Online databases and digital collections (Berg Fashion Library, Europeana Fashion)
  • Offer searchable access to a wide range of primary and secondary sources
  • Allow for remote research and collaboration with scholars and institutions worldwide
• Auction catalogs and vintage clothing dealers
  • Provide information about specific garments and accessories, including provenance and condition
  • Offer insights into market trends and the collectibility of certain items

Analyzing Historical Garments

• Importance of examining extant garments to gain insights into construction techniques, materials, and design details
• Assessing the condition of the garment, noting any alterations, repairs, or signs of wear
• Identifying the materials used, such as fabric types, trims, and fasteners
  • Analyzing the quality and properties of the materials to understand their significance and potential symbolism
• Studying the construction techniques employed, including seams, hems, and closures
  • Comparing construction techniques to those used in other garments from the same time period or culture
• Examining the cut and silhouette of the garment, considering how it relates to the fashionable ideal of the time
• Interpreting any decorative elements, such as embroidery, lace, or printed motifs, and their cultural or social significance
• Considering the context in which the garment was worn, including the occasion, social class, and gender of the wearer

Connecting Costume to Culture

• Clothing as a reflection of social, cultural, and economic factors
  • Sumptuary laws in medieval Europe regulating clothing based on social class and occupation
  • The rise of conspicuous consumption in the 19th century and the use of clothing to display wealth and status
• Fashion as a form of communication and self-expression
  • The adoption of trousers by women in the early 20th century as a symbol of gender equality and liberation
  • The use of clothing to express political or social affiliations (suffragette colors, counterculture styles)
• The influence of cultural exchange and globalization on fashion
  • The impact of trade routes (Silk Road) on the spread of clothing styles and materials
  • The appropriation and adaptation of non-Western clothing styles by Western fashion designers
• The role of clothing in constructing and maintaining social norms and expectations
  • The association of certain clothing styles with specific gender roles or age groups
  • The use of uniforms to denote occupation, rank, or membership in a particular group

Putting It All Together

• Synthesizing information from multiple sources to create a comprehensive understanding of a particular time period, culture, or clothing style
• Comparing and contrasting clothing styles across different time periods, cultures, or social groups to identify patterns and trends
• Analyzing the relationship between clothing and other aspects of material culture, such as architecture, furniture, and decorative arts
• Considering the impact of technological innovations on clothing production and consumption (sewing machine, synthetic dyes)
• Examining the role of fashion designers, manufacturers, and retailers in shaping clothing styles and trends
• Exploring the environmental and ethical implications of clothing production and consumption throughout history
• Applying insights from costume history to contemporary fashion design, marketing, and consumption practices
• Communicating findings and interpretations through various formats, such as research papers, presentations, or exhibitions