8.5 Jewelry making
8 min read•august 21, 2024
Viking jewelry reflects the rich material culture and trade networks of the era. , , and gemstones were used for high-status pieces, while copper alloys and glass beads were common in everyday adornments.
Metalworking techniques like filigree and showcase Viking . Designs often featured Norse and geometric patterns, with styles evolving throughout the Viking Age. Jewelry served as status symbols and sometimes currency.
Materials for Viking jewelry
- Viking jewelry production reflects the rich material culture and trade networks of the Viking Age
- Understanding materials used provides insights into Viking society, economy, and artistic preferences
- Materials chosen for jewelry often indicate social status, cultural beliefs, and trade connections
Precious metals in Viking era
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- Gold and silver served as primary precious metals for high-status jewelry
- Silver became increasingly prevalent due to influx from Islamic silver coins
- Copper and copper alloys (bronze, brass) used for more common jewelry items
- Precious metals often obtained through trade, raiding, or as payment for mercenary services
Gemstones and glass beads
- Garnets imported from distant sources (India, Sri Lanka) prized for their deep red color
- Rock crystal, , and jet used for both decorative and believed magical properties
- Glass beads produced locally and imported from trading centers (Ribe, Hedeby)
- Millefiori beads from the Mediterranean world highly valued for their intricate patterns
Organic materials in adornments
- Bone and antler carved into pendants, beads, and decorative elements
- Walrus ivory prized for its durability and used in high-status jewelry
- Wood occasionally used for larger pieces or as inlay material
- Animal teeth and claws incorporated into necklaces and amulets for symbolic purposes
Techniques of Viking jewelers
- Viking metalworking techniques demonstrate high level of craftsmanship and artistic skill
- Jewelry production techniques evolved throughout the Viking Age, incorporating new influences
- Understanding these techniques aids archaeologists in dating and provenance determination
Metalworking methods
- Forging used to shape metal through hammering and annealing
- Wire drawing produced thin metal strands for intricate designs
- Soldering joined separate metal pieces using lower melting point alloys
- Repoussé and chasing techniques created raised designs on metal surfaces
- Repoussé involved hammering from the back to create raised areas
- Chasing refined details from the front using small punches
Filigree and granulation
- Filigree involved soldering tiny metal wires to create intricate patterns
- Granulation technique attached small metal spheres to surfaces
- Both techniques often combined to create elaborate surface decorations
- Filigree and granulation reached peak complexity in 10th-century Scandinavia
- Influenced by contact with Byzantine and Islamic metalworking traditions
Casting and molding processes
- Lost-wax used for complex three-dimensional forms
- Wax model created, encased in clay, melted out, and replaced with molten metal
- Two-piece molds used for simpler, flat designs
- Carved stone molds produced multiple copies of common jewelry items
- Casting allowed for mass production of certain jewelry types (Thor's hammer pendants)
Styles and designs
- Viking jewelry styles reflect a blend of native Scandinavian traditions and foreign influences
- Designs often carried symbolic meanings related to Norse mythology and beliefs
- Stylistic changes over time help archaeologists date jewelry finds
Norse animal motifs
- Gripping beasts intertwined in complex arrangements
- Jellinge style featured ribbon-like animal bodies with spiral hips
- Borre style characterized by gripping beasts and interlace patterns
- Urnes style developed late in Viking Age with graceful, elongated animals
Geometric patterns
- Interlace designs created complex knot-work patterns
- Triangular and diamond shapes often used in repeating border designs
- Spiral motifs appeared in both metalwork and stone carving
- Geometric patterns sometimes combined with animal motifs for added complexity
Christian vs pagan symbolism
- Thor's hammer pendants represented adherence to traditional Norse beliefs
- Cross pendants indicated Christian conversion or cultural influence
- Valkyrie figurines associated with Norse mythology and warrior culture
- Mix of Christian and pagan symbols in late Viking Age reflected religious transition
- Some jewelry pieces incorporated both cross and hammer symbols
Types of Viking jewelry
- Viking jewelry types varied based on function, social status, and gender
- Certain jewelry forms served practical purposes beyond adornment
- Archaeological finds reveal changes in jewelry types over time and across regions
Brooches and fibulas
- Oval (turtle brooches) worn in pairs by women to fasten apron dresses
- Trefoil brooches inspired by Carolingian designs, popular in 9th-10th centuries
- Penannular brooches used to fasten cloaks, often decorated with animal heads
- Equal-armed brooches common in eastern Viking territories
Arm rings and neck rings
- Arm rings served as both adornment and portable wealth
- Twisted silver arm rings (armband) used as currency in weight-based economy
- Neck rings (torc) worn by both men and women as status symbols
- Some neck rings designed to be taken apart for use as payment
Pendants and amulets
- Thor's hammer pendants most common type of Viking Age amulet
- Animal-shaped pendants (birds, horses) linked to Norse mythology
- Coin pendants made from foreign silver coins, often with added loops
- Miniature tools and weapons worn as protective amulets
Social significance of jewelry
- Jewelry in Viking society went beyond mere decoration, carrying deep social meanings
- Understanding jewelry's social roles provides insights into Viking Age social structures
- Jewelry often played a part in important life events and rituals
Status and wealth indicators
- Gold jewelry reserved for highest social ranks and royalty
- Weight and quality of silver jewelry reflected owner's economic status
- Complexity of designs and use of imported materials signaled wealth and connections
- Arm rings and neck rings sometimes given as rewards for loyalty or military service
Gender-specific adornments
- Women typically wore paired oval brooches, often with strings of beads between
- Men more commonly wore arm rings, neck rings, and cloak pins
- Some jewelry types (pendants, finger rings) worn by both genders
- Certain amulet types associated more strongly with one gender (Thor's with men)
Ritual and religious functions
- Jewelry often included in grave goods, believed to accompany deceased to afterlife
- Certain amulets thought to provide protection or invoke divine assistance
- Arm rings used in oath-taking ceremonies, linking personal honor to material wealth
- Deposition of jewelry in hoards may have had ritual significance beyond economic reasons
Regional variations
- Viking jewelry styles varied across the diverse territories of Viking influence
- Regional differences reflect local traditions, available materials, and cultural contacts
- Studying regional variations helps trace Viking migration and trade patterns
Scandinavian vs insular styles
- Scandinavian styles characterized by animal motifs and complex interlace designs
- Insular (British Isles) styles incorporated Celtic artistic traditions
- Penannular brooches particularly popular in Norse-Irish contexts
- Fusion styles developed in areas of long-term Viking settlement (Isle of Man, Orkney)
- Gotlandic jewelry often distinct, with unique brooch forms and filigree work
Eastern influences on designs
- Eastern Viking territories (Russia, Ukraine) show Byzantine and Islamic influences
- Crescent-shaped pendants reflect contact with Islamic cultures
- Granulation technique more prevalent in eastern Viking jewelry
- Plant motifs and certain geometric designs adopted from Byzantine art
Archaeological evidence
- Archaeological finds of Viking jewelry provide crucial evidence for understanding the period
- Proper excavation and analysis methods are essential for extracting maximum information
- Jewelry finds contribute to broader understanding of Viking Age trade and social networks
Burial finds vs hoards
- Burial jewelry provides context for individual use and social status
- Position of jewelry on body indicates how it was worn
- Combination of jewelry types reveals cultural affiliations
- Hoards often contain higher quality items, sometimes deliberately damaged
- Silver hoards provide evidence of weight-based economic systems
- Composition of hoards can indicate date of deposition and owner's connections
Workshop sites and tools
- Excavated workshop sites reveal production techniques and organization
- Crucibles, molds, and metalworking tools found at urban centers (Hedeby, Birka)
- Unfinished pieces and production waste provide insights into manufacturing processes
- Distribution of workshops indicates centers of jewelry production and trade
Preservation and analysis methods
- X-ray fluorescence (XRF) used to determine metal composition without damaging artifacts
- Microscopic analysis reveals details of manufacturing techniques (tool marks, wear patterns)
- 3D scanning and printing allows for detailed study and replication of complex pieces
- Proper conservation methods crucial for preserving delicate filigree and granulation work
Evolution of Viking jewelry
- Viking jewelry styles and techniques evolved significantly over the course of the Viking Age
- Changes in jewelry reflect broader cultural, economic, and political developments
- Tracing this evolution helps archaeologists refine chronologies and understand cultural change
Pre-Viking influences
- Migration Period (400-800 CE) animal styles influenced early Viking designs
- Vendel Period (550-790 CE) saw development of complex animal interlace motifs
- Late Roman and Byzantine influences visible in some early Viking jewelry forms
- Celtic artistic traditions incorporated, especially in insular Viking territories
Changes during Viking Age
- Early period (late 8th-9th centuries) characterized by development of distinctly Viking styles
- Mid-Viking period (10th century) saw peak of technical complexity in filigree and granulation
- Late Viking period (11th century) showed increasing Christian influence in designs
- Mass-produced jewelry types (oval brooches) became standardized over time
Legacy in medieval jewelry
- Viking animal styles influenced Romanesque art in Scandinavia and beyond
- Certain jewelry forms (penannular brooches) continued in use in medieval period
- Viking filigree and granulation techniques adopted by medieval European goldsmiths
- Norse-Gaelic jewelry styles in Ireland and Scotland showed long-lasting Viking influence
Trade and exchange
- Viking jewelry production and distribution were closely tied to long-distance trade networks
- Study of jewelry materials and styles provides evidence for Viking and contacts
- Jewelry played multiple roles in Viking economic systems
Sources of raw materials
- Silver primarily obtained through trade with Islamic world via eastern routes
- Gold sourced from Byzantine territories and recycled Roman objects
- Amber collected from Baltic coast, traded widely across Europe and beyond
- Jet obtained from limited sources (Whitby, England) indicates specific trade connections
Jewelry as currency
- Silver arm rings and neck rings used as "hack-silver" in weight-based transactions
- Standardized forms of silver jewelry may have served as proto-currency
- Foreign coins often converted into jewelry, combining economic and decorative functions
- Value of jewelry in weight of precious metal allowed for flexible economic exchanges
International trade networks
- Viking trade routes connected Scandinavia with Eastern Europe, Byzantine Empire, and beyond
- Silk Road connections brought exotic materials (carnelian, rock crystal) to Viking markets
- Norse colonies in British Isles facilitated trade with Western Europe and Ireland
- Baltic trade networks distributed amber and local jewelry styles across Northern Europe
Modern interpretations
- Viking jewelry continues to fascinate modern audiences and inspire contemporary designs
- Accurate reproductions and artistic interpretations serve educational and cultural purposes
- Popular media representations of Viking jewelry influence public perceptions of the period
Replicas and reproductions
- Museum-quality replicas created for educational purposes and experimental archaeology
- Historical reenactment communities drive market for accurate Viking jewelry reproductions
- Modern jewelers create pieces inspired by Viking designs using traditional techniques
- 3D printing technology allows for creation of complex Viking-style pieces
Viking jewelry in popular culture
- Films and TV series (Vikings, The Last Kingdom) showcase interpretations of Viking jewelry
- Fantasy genres often incorporate elements of Viking jewelry designs
- Video games featuring Viking themes include detailed representations of period jewelry
- Modern "Viking-inspired" jewelry ranges from historically accurate to loosely inspired designs
Key Terms to Review (19)
Amber: Amber is a fossilized tree resin that has been appreciated for its beauty and rarity, often used in jewelry and as a trade commodity. In the context of historical trade, amber played a significant role as a valuable good that connected various cultures and economies through maritime routes, marketplaces, and trade centers.
Animal motifs: Animal motifs refer to decorative designs or representations of animals that are commonly found in various forms of art and craftsmanship. These motifs often symbolize cultural values, beliefs, and the connection between humans and nature, manifesting in diverse media such as jewelry, wood carving, and textile art. The significance of these motifs can vary widely, reflecting regional styles and spiritual meanings while enhancing the aesthetic quality of the artifacts they adorn.
Brooches: Brooches are decorative items of jewelry designed to be attached to garments, often serving both functional and ornamental purposes. In the Viking Age, they were not just personal adornments but also indicators of social status, craftsmanship, and artistic expression. The style and material of brooches varied, reflecting the wearer's identity and social hierarchy, making them significant in understanding cultural practices and technological advancements in metalworking and jewelry making.
Casting: Casting is a metalworking process where molten metal is poured into a mold to create a desired shape or form once it solidifies. This technique is crucial for producing various objects, including tools, decorative items, and jewelry, allowing for intricate designs and precise details. It played a significant role in the production of metal goods, enhancing both functionality and artistry in various applications.
Craftsmanship: Craftsmanship refers to the skill and artistry involved in creating handmade items, emphasizing the quality and detail of the work. This concept is significant as it showcases the artisan's knowledge, techniques, and dedication to their craft, resulting in functional and aesthetically pleasing objects. The term is deeply connected to various traditional practices, where the craftsman often passes down their skills through generations, enhancing the cultural heritage associated with each art form.
Files: Files are tools used in jewelry making to shape and smooth metal surfaces, essential for achieving precise designs and finishes. They come in various shapes and sizes, allowing artisans to work on intricate details or broader areas of metal. The effective use of files can significantly enhance the overall quality and craftsmanship of jewelry pieces.
Funerary offerings: Funerary offerings are items placed in graves or burial sites as part of rituals to honor the deceased and provide for them in the afterlife. These offerings often include personal belongings, food, and valuables, reflecting the beliefs and customs surrounding death and the afterlife in various cultures. In many cases, these offerings serve not only as a means to aid the deceased in their journey but also as a way for the living to express their respect and connection to the individual who has passed away.
Gokstad ship: The Gokstad ship is a well-preserved Viking longship discovered in Norway, dating back to the 9th century. It showcases the advanced shipbuilding techniques of the Vikings, which allowed for impressive maritime navigation and exploration. The ship is significant for understanding Viking Age culture, including their craftsmanship, trade networks, and beliefs about the afterlife, as it was used in burial practices that reflected their views on death and the journey beyond.
Gold: Gold is a precious metal that has been highly valued throughout history for its rarity, luster, and malleability. Its unique properties make it an ideal material for crafting jewelry, particularly in cultures that sought to create ornate and durable decorative items. The use of gold in jewelry making is often associated with status, wealth, and spiritual significance across different societies.
Granulation: Granulation is a metalworking technique that involves the creation of small beads or granules of metal, typically gold or silver, which are used to decorate surfaces or create intricate designs. This method has been utilized for centuries, particularly in jewelry making, where granules are fused onto a base surface to add texture and visual appeal. Granulation can also be important in tool production for enhancing the functionality and aesthetic quality of metal tools.
Hammers: Hammers are tools used in the process of shaping and forming materials, primarily metals, by striking them with force. In jewelry making, hammers are essential for creating textures, shaping metal components, and joining pieces together through techniques like forging or riveting. The use of different types of hammers allows artisans to achieve various effects and finishes on their jewelry pieces.
Mythological motifs: Mythological motifs are recurring themes, symbols, or elements found in mythologies that convey deeper meanings and narratives. They often represent cultural beliefs, values, and the collective psyche of a society. In the context of decorative arts and jewelry, these motifs can reflect the spiritual and cultural identity of a civilization, showcasing how these societies understood their world through their art forms.
Oseberg Burial: The Oseberg Burial is a renowned Viking Age grave discovered in Norway, dating back to the early 9th century. It is famous for its well-preserved ship and the rich array of grave goods, highlighting the social status and burial practices of the Viking elite. The intricacies of the burial reveal not only the craftsmanship of the time but also provide insights into Viking beliefs and their connections to jewelry making.
Sagas of the Icelanders: The sagas of the Icelanders are a collection of medieval prose narratives written in Old Norse, detailing the lives and adventures of early Icelandic settlers and their descendants. These sagas not only provide insight into the social, cultural, and political life of the Viking Age but also showcase significant craftsmanship in storytelling and character development.
Silver: Silver is a precious metal known for its lustrous appearance and high conductivity, often used as currency, in trade, and for crafting various decorative and functional items. In the context of the Viking Age, silver played a crucial role in economic systems and social status, influencing trade routes, artistic expression, and the creation of jewelry and metalwork.
Status symbol: A status symbol is an object, quality, or achievement that is regarded as a reflection of an individual's social position or prestige within a culture. These symbols serve to communicate wealth, power, or social standing, and they are often manifested through material goods and artistic expressions. In the context of creativity, decorative arts and textiles can significantly function as status symbols, showcasing not only personal wealth but also cultural identity and craftsmanship.
Torques: Torques are a type of ornamental jewelry, often crafted in the shape of a rigid, curved metal collar or necklace that typically wraps around the neck. These items were not only decorative but also held cultural significance and were often worn by individuals of high status in various ancient societies. In jewelry making, torques exemplify the skill of metalworking and the aesthetic values of the time.
Trade routes: Trade routes are established paths or networks through which goods, services, and cultural exchanges occur between different regions. In the Viking Age, these routes were crucial for the expansion of trade, enabling the Vikings to connect with diverse cultures and economies across Europe and beyond, influencing various aspects of their society such as shipbuilding, urban development, craftsmanship, and diplomatic relations.
Ynglinga Saga: Ynglinga Saga is a legendary account of the early Norse kings, tracing their lineage back to the god Odin and offering insights into the origins of the Swedish royal line. This saga is part of the larger Heimskringla, written by the historian Snorri Sturluson in the 13th century, which emphasizes both mythological and historical elements important to understanding Viking Age culture and identity.